over a street used at dawn by reefer trucks… The plate-glass window in front is said to be the biggest barroom window in town. That’s quite a distinction in a town where barroom windows are made small so that patrons don’t get thrown through them.
It was a fine place; people bought drinks for each other like they said hello and Ethel cooked up a big pot of fish chowder from time to time.
There’s a pool table, a pay phone by the door, and a horseshoe-shaped bar. Budweiser costs a dollar seventy-five but as often as not there’s a fisherman just in from a trip who’s buying for the whole house. Money flows through a fisherman like water flows through a fishing net; one regular ran up a $4,000 tab in a week.”